The Habs’ recent success in NHL hockey play-offs is stirring French Canadian patriotism (my partner’s in particular). When I think of all things Québecois that I love, I can’t help but think about all of the amazing food I enjoy when there: cheese and bagels, smoked meat … but mostly proper poutine!

My fondest memory of poutine was the time I visited my dear French-Canadian friends during their four-year posting at the Canadian Embassy in Amman, Jordan. When asked what I could bring them from Canada: “Cheese curds & hockey gloves” were on Guillaume’s wish list… There were squeals of delight by the whole family when I arrived and pulled the curds out of my suitcase — a batch of poutine was whipped up shortly thereafter. This was the best poutine I ever had. I suppose it was because of the circumstances: I rarely eat poutine out West—so it was novel, perhaps it was the fine company I was with, or the joy of experiencing a sense of ‘home’ with loved ones who were missing small comforts on the other side of the world, or simply that Guillaume is very skilled at making proper poutine, having done so at a pub in rural Québec during his youth.

The word for “poutine” translates from regional slang meaning “pudding”, or “mix” or “mess”. There are strong opinions and debate over origin, purity and ‘properness’ in general. Poutine was invented in rural Québec in the 1950’s as a snack bar treat made of fresh cut fries topped with cheese curds and gravy. It became more widely popularized across the country in the 1990’s, gaining recognition as one of Canada’s national dishes. The basic 3-part recipe (fries, curds & gravy) has evolved to include a number of different toppings ranging anywhere from pulled pork and miso gravy to paneer instead of curds and butter chicken for gravy… available anywhere from road-side stalls to high-brow restaurant offerings all over Canada and in many parts of the world now.

I believe food, like anything cultural, evolves when exposed to new ideas at the hands of creatives, changing economies, migration & technology. Whether or not you enjoy the classic traditional version of the dish, or enjoy new contemporary offerings available, let us recognize its distinctive Québécois origins and the Canadiana approach and pride to enjoying it anywhere, any way, any time!

Try making it at home:

INGREDIENTS & METHOD

• Potatoes (best are high starch like russets)

• Fresh cheese curds (They are at most grocery stores these days, even Costco. My west coast favourite: next time you are in Seattle pick up Beecher’s fresh curds from the Pike Place market)

• Gravy (use left-over beef gravy, or if vegetarian try Naam miso gravy made in Vancouver from specialty markets, or if you want the old-school taste, get Québec-made St Hubert poutine sauce available out west now at most chain grocery stores.)

• Alternates (Top with pulled pork, try fresh mozza or marble if you can’t find curds, garnish with chives—get creative once you have appreciated a more authentic style first)

If you have one, use a mandolin to cut your fries so they are all evenly sized. Not too big, not too small, around 1/4 inch is best. Guillaume swears by salting and blanching the potatoes in the fridge for an hour or so prior to frying for maximum awesomeness. Pat dry and then frying them is honestly the best way to go. (Use an air-fryer if you have one!). Drain well and top warm fries with curds, then a generous helping of your gravy of choice. Gravy to fry ratio is important, some insist that 1/4 of the fries must remain exposed as too much gravy will cause your fries to get soggy. But that’s up to you! Once assembled, you may want to bake a little further in the oven.

SERVE WITH

I find poutine very filling and can be eaten as a meal itself. The classic old-school way in rural Québec is still to enjoy it alongside a steam-bun or toasty-bun hotdog. A wise person would have poutine as a small side dish accompanied by a nice crunchy garden salad to reduce the guilt.

WINE UNDER $20

Recently I discovered this nice little Spanish Verdejo by Galerna. It is around $18 but often comes on sale for $13-15 and is delicious with fries. Most would argue that a nice frosty beer would be the way to go, if that is the case, I recommend supporting a local brewer by picking up a growler of draught. My guy in Vancouver lives around the corner from Brassneck Brewery and our favourite is Klutz Kolsch. Enjoy!